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#How to make a homemade animation light box plus
#How to make a homemade animation light box series
#How to make a homemade animation light box crack

#How to make a homemade animation light box crack

Add in the picture frame/plexiglass (remove picture frame backings, if necessary), and glue it down! We used thick coats, enough to put a seal on every crack and inner corner. Clamp sides together, or if you don't have a clamp like us, tape it, and cross your fingers! Set aside the back panel for the end.Ĥ. Cut out the pieces (5 total), and wood glue the sides of the box together, minus the back panel (4 pieces). (if our wood were thicker, I'd probably cut box joints and suffer from trying to cut and fit them by hand, ha)ģ. So, we had 11.125" x 4" (x2) and 14.125" x 4" (x2) boards.) The back panel of the box is just the length so 14" x 4" for us (you can add a little extra and shave off excess later, just in case it turns out too small for some reason). Measure out the thickness of the wood, and add that to your length and width measurements. Measure the length and width of your frame. In hindsight, it probably would have been more useful to save the extra for the framing/backing of the box.)Ģ. (3" would work for our box, but we were lazy, and used the entire 4" board.

#How to make a homemade animation light box plus

Measure the thickness of your paper layers, plus about 1+ inch room for lights, picture frame (we decided on the glass picture frame) and backing. A better box could have been made, like a sliding box, minus the fancy gadgetry, for easy fixing of inside contents)ġ. If you bought a box, good for you! Skip to the next step. More layers give more depth into your box, but same some space (maybe 1"+) for your lights! Foam board makes each layer ~3/16" thick, and we lazily settled with 12 layers (2.5 inches total). Consider the number of layers you're working with.

(white or yellow pic, layers 1 & 2/3) The back tree layer's leaves were cut out to give more depth(?) to the tree.ģ.

(white-ish pic, layers 5 & 4) The cliff shows behind the girl.

(yellow-ish pic, layers 11 & 12) A dark outline appears between the bunny cloud and the cloud behind it.

Be mindful of your overlapping layers! Light will still somewhat shine through the card stock, but more overlap means less light shining through, so you can see the layers: For the water (layer #9 & #6), use a thin weight paper papers like tracing/tissue lets you see the back layers better! Reinforce the shape with laminate paper/tape/something.Ģ. Number each layer on the outline for easy reference.ġ. You can use an art program (and print/laser cut each layer onto card stock).Or you can be cheap like me! Draw the outline in one layer, manually. No important details near the border, unless you don't mind it hidden away. Draw an outline of all the layers you plan on having, based on the size you want (eg. Brighter lights may also make for a more uniform light.ġ.

Makes a neat aurora borealis/ rainbow though!). multi-color LEDs can make a noticeable difference when you're attempting white, because 3 separate colors combine to produce white. You may or may not want multiple colors (eg. You can always buy pre-made boxes, like shadow boxes! We wanted something large for a bare wall, like a 11x14 inch photo frame.

#How to make a homemade animation light box series

You might end up weirdo-creeping, but experiment by shining a light behind papers! If you can't (or won't), get anything stiff enough to keep a shape, like poster paper or Strathmore 400 Series Mixed Media Pads (unjust comparison shown in pic). staples, hooks, bent nails, etc)ĭifferent paper weights and surface textures give off slightly different effects. picture frame, plexiglass, etc) īubble level (optional) (app: ipad/ android)

Laminating sheets (or stiffening agent for tissue paper).

Blue tape/lint roller (to pick up on any stray lint/pet hair).

Make sure it's sharp and precise, unless you don't care about torn edges!)

Cutting device (box cutter, exacto knife, laser cutter.